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The
basics
1. The method of working the different
types of compound engines are all the same although some of these may be fitted
with two speed plough gear. However, a few notes of guidance will be helpful
although it is realized that more than one session may be required to gain
sufficient experience from all the operations discussed in these notes.
2. Rather than go into a lengthy and
possibly bewildering technical description of the working of a wide variety of
implements and the various types of steam engine, either single cylinder or
compound cylinder, it is felt that the basics can best be explained by the
instructor in charge of the particular engine or implement that is to hand with
one feature of operation at a time being explained and mastered before moving
onto the next.
Handling
the compound engine
3. First of all concentrate on
the handling of the engine with the management of the boiler, i.e. firing,
maintaining the water level and the steam pressure being left to the instructor
until a later stage. As the technique in handling a single cylinder engine is
different to that of a compound cylinder engine we will consider a two crank
compound engine first.
4. It is a good idea to get the
"feel" of the engine by running it out of gear at first and get used
to starting and reversing. With a two crank compound engine, before opening the
regulator, first check that the right hand side (high pressure) crank is not on
a dead centre. If it is, then do not open the regulator but gently push the
small spring loaded auxiliary valve lever first. This admits boiler steam direct
to the low pressure cylinder, which having its crank at 90° to the high
pressure one will enable the engine to start. Do not hold this lever in once the
high pressure crank has moved off centre. The main regulator valve should now be
opened to run the engine.
5. If the high pressure crank is
not on a dead centre then the main regulator only should be used for starting.
6. If the engine is running
slowly with the regulator just open and the engine stalls on a high pressure
dead centre, e.g. when moving along slowly in gear and the engine meets some
resistance e on the ground, or perhaps when the ploughing clutch is engaged, it
is not necessary to close the regulator. Just give the auxiliary valve lever a
push and then open the regulator a little more.
Engaging
the clutch lever
 7. A left hand engine is one
where the rope comes out on the left hand side of the engine as seen from the
footplate works along the right hand headland of the field and ploughs with the
engine running in forward gear, i.e. with the reversing lever in the forward
position.
8. A right hand engine, with the
rope coming out on the right hand side and working along the left hand headland
of the field, ploughs with the engine running in reverse gear, i.e. with the
reversing lever in the rearward position.
9. Therefore, assuming we are on a
left hand engine, then run the engine slowly with the reversing lever in the
reverse position and when we are ready to engage the ploughing clutch swing the
reversing lever over to the forward working position and simultaneously engage
the clutch lever as the engine reverses. This will allow the clutch to slip in
smoothly.
10. As the resistance of the
plough increases the regulator will need to be opened further but slow steady
pulling at the start is essential in order to assist those at the other end maneuvering
the plough into position.
At
the end of the pull
11. The correct procedure at the
end of a pull with a left hand engine is to act promptly as soon as the
regulator is shut by pulling the reversing lever over into reverse and with the
left hand disengage the clutch lever if it has not already dropped out on its
own. Next, swing the reversing lever straight to the forward position but
pausing briefly at the mid-gear position where it will be found that the
remaining "active" steam trapped in the valve chests is sufficient to
turn the crankshaft gently. This will enable the engagement of the slow speed
road gear without recourse to using the regulator. This avoids crashing the road
gears into mesh.
12. With a right hand engine the
procedure is the same except that the reversing lever is already in reverse at
the end of the pull so all that is needed is to swing the reversing lever to the
forward position as noted above and the clutch can be disengaged at the same
time as the road gear is engaged.
13. It is absolutely vital that
the driver keeps an eye on the implement at all times when pulling. Avoid all
distractions. It is advisable to keep a hand near the whistle cord to give a
stop signal at a moment’s notice as the implement pulls away. Make sure that
the implement is in good sight of the other engine before tending the fire etc.
On no account leave the engine footplate when work is in progress.
If
the engine stalls
14.
If the engine stalls and will not respond to further opening of the regulator,
the regulator should be shut and the reversing level pulled over. The engine
should now run the other way. As soon as this happens the reversing lever should
be put back to its running position and the regulator opened in the normal
way.
15. If the engine has stalled
through overload with the high pressure crank stuck on a dead centre, the first
thing to try after closing the regulator is to use the reversing lever, although
in these circumstances it will be hard to pull over but ease the lever carefully
past the mid-gear position otherwise the engine may race away violently.
16. If the engine has stalled
with the ploughing gear clutch engaged care is needed when swinging the
reversing level over beyond the mid-gear position because as soon as the engine
starts to run the opposite way the clutch will push itself out of engagement.
The clutch teeth have a positive rake formed on the teeth which prevents
disengagement when under load.
17. If it is necessary to use the
reversing gear in these circumstances the clutch lever must be pushed down the
very instant the engine starts to run the other way, fully disengaging it to
avoid the teeth from striking one another. If the lever is held down hard for a
moment or two when disengaged this will operate the drum brake thus avoiding
dropping loose coils of rope on the drum.
18. If the regulator was open
wide when the engine stalled with steam in the valve chest at or near full
boiler pressure and operating the auxiliary valve lever fails to turn the engine
do not continue to push the auxiliary valve lever as this will allow high
pressure steam to build up in the low pressure receiver and act on both sides of
the high pressure piston. This will "lock" the engine from turning; a
situation which should be avoided.
19. However, if we do find
ourselves in this situation, which can be caused by worn or broken piston rings,
where the engine will not turn in either direction regardless of the position of
either of the cranks then the regulator should be fully closed and the cylinder
drain cocks opened to release all the steam. When the steam is cleared from the
cylinders swing the reversing lever over to the opposite side and when all the
steam is cleared from the valve chests shut the cylinder cocks, check the crank
positions and start again.
Handling
the single cylinder and single crank compound engine
20. Single cylinder engines take
some getting used to. Judicious use of the reversing lever is called for when
starting the problem to avoid the engine getting "stuck" on a dead
centre. With a traction engine the flywheel can be easily reached from the
footplate to pull the crank off dead centre for starting. This is not so easily
achieved on a ploughing engine. Swinging the reversing lever fore and aft at the
same time as opening the regulator will usually start the engine. The technique
is to get some momentum into the flywheel before setting the reversing lever
into the desired direction of working. This initial momentum will keep the crank
turning without stopping at the end of its stroke on a dead centre until tick
over speed is reached.
21. Further opening of the
regulator with the winding gear engaged and the engine under load is best done
by watching the crank and opening the regulator after the crank has just passed
a dead centre. If stalling occurs under load move the reversing lever gently
past the mid gear position and as soon as the engine starts to turn, quickly put
the reversing lever back to the running position. Further opening of the
regulator may be needed to avoid stalling again.
The
technique with the single cylinder Fowlers Nos. 2861 and 3195
22. Then engaging the ploughing
gear this is different as these engines do not have a ploughing clutch as on the
compounds. They require the bevel gear to be slid into mesh with the matching
bevel wheel. Therefore the crank must be stationary before attempting to engage
gear.
23. The procedure is as follows.
Run the engine at tick over and close the regulator. Swing the reversing lever
over to the opposite way to the pulling position and the crank should then stop
in the correct position for starting and engaging the bevel gear. In the event
of the gear teeth not meshing the reversing lever will have to be manipulated
until it is possible to engage it. Alternatively the flywheel can be moved by
hand the fraction necessary. With the reversing lever now set for running in the
right direction the regulator can be opened to start the engine in the normal
way.
24. It must be borne in mind
however that in the event of stalling with the winding gear now engaged it is
not permissible to allow the engine to reverse beyond a half revolution
otherwise the rope will unwind on the drum with disastrous results.
Fowler/Burrell
engine
25. The Fowler/Burrell engine is
a compound cylinder with both pistons connected to one crank. This engine has a
clutch so the same procedure is used to engage the ploughing gear as that
already described above for the other compound engines. The starting process is
the same as described for the single cylinder engines.
Firing
26. Firing up is one of these
things that requires some experience as this is different on the road to working
in the field. Initially just pay attention to placing an even amount of coal
over the grate ensuring that there are no "holes" in the fire and pay
particular attention to the sides of the grate and the back below the firehole
door. This cannot easily be seen especially on a BB engine. Cold air drawn up
round the sides of the firebox does not do the firebox any good and the engine
will not steam properly.
27. Fire up and put the injector
on while the other engine is pulling back. Do not open the firehole door while
you are pulling. This is unnecessary on a ploughing engine and if done allows
cold air to be drawn in and impinge directly on the tubes. Similarly when
driving on the road one would not fire up when the engine was pulling hard going
up a hill.
Water
level
28. Maintain a good three
quarters of a gauge glass of water when standing level, almost a full glass of
water when working up hill to keep the tubes in the front end of the boiler
covered and if very steep the water will need to be right up to the top nut.
Most importantly ensure that the water level does not go below the bottom gauge
glass nut when working downhill.
Whistle
Signals
29.
1 blast = STOP
2 blasts = GO
1 long blast = WATER REQUIRED or COAL REQUIRED
Hand
Signals by the Ploughman
30. The ploughman must at all
times be facing the driver to whom he is signalling. This also applies to a
flagman who must turn to face the driver when relaying a signal.
One arm raised above the head = STOP
Both arms raised above the head = STOP AND
PUT THE CLUTCH OUT
Swinging arm from one side to the other
across the front of his chest. = GO ON
One arm held out horizontally shoulder
high = SLOW DOWN
One arm held out, waved up and down about
a horizontal position = SLOW DOWN QUICKLY
31. If the driver receives a "slow
down" signal and slows down but the ploughman continues to hold his arm out
horizontally, then a slower speed still is required. A "Go On" signal
is used when it is required to increase speed again.
The plough - types
32. Operation of the plough is
perhaps best understood by observation at first. There were many types of plough
made and this is a complicated subject to discuss fully. We only need to
consider the two in use - the 5 furrow bevel frame plough which is a shallow
type with a 12 inch furrow width and has anti-balance gear. In this type when
the plough is at work the plough centre, main wheels and draft gear are thrown
out of balance to transfer more weight onto the working end of the plough, about
5 cwt, to help keep the working end of the plough down in the ground.
33. The four furrow plough is also a
shallow type and is a true balance plough with a 10 inch furrow width. This is
an earlier design of plough compatible with the single cylinder engines.
Working
the plough
34. The usual method of working with a
balance type plough is to steer the plough out of the furrow at the end of a
pull about 8 yards or so from the pulling engine, turning the steering onto full
lock and steering the plough out of the furrow onto the unploughed land and
towards the front of the engine by an amount equal to about two thirds the
working width of the plough and just before the plough stops turn the steering
onto full opposite lock.
35. When the driver has released his
ploughing clutch remove the tail rope from the slack rope hook on the end of the
plough frame otherwise it will be impossible to tip the plough down. This is the
assistants job.
36. When the engine next to the plough has
moved along the headland moving its rope out of the way of the plough shares the
other engine can start to pull. If the plough is of the anti balance type watch
the anti balance rollers in the plough centre and as soon as these move to the
centre balance position the plough can be pulled down and should now be held in
balance with the end of the frame about waist high and swung round towards the
unploughed land with the furrow wheel running towards the last open furrow. As
soon as the furrow wheel is in line to enter the open furrow the plough frame is
swung back into line with the direction of the work before lowering it onto the
ground.
37. The slack rope can now be placed on
the slack rope hook by the assistant. It will be appreciated that except for the
smallest of ploughs at least two people are required for this manoeuvring and
the foregoing operation requires steady pulling by the opposite engine until the
plough is lowered into its working position with the shares starting to dig into
the ground before the speed is increased.
38. When putting the slack rope onto the
slack rope hook on the end of the plough frame grasp the rope at least 18 inches
away from the hook to avoid pinched fingers when the plough middle slides into
anti-balance, as the rope slides with it through the hook.
39. When steering the plough with the
right hand furrows working the steering is the opposite way round to normal.
This takes some getting used to and if the furrow wheel is inadvertently steered
out of the furrow the plough must be stopped and pulled back by the other
engine. It cannot be steered back into the furrow without missing several yards
of ground and if done it will spoil the work and leave a crooked furrow.
The cultivator
40. The cultivator is a turning implement
having 9 tines in the frame of 11 tines with the extra brackets fitted on the
outside beams. It is known as an 9/11 cultivator and is fairly simple to
operate. The tines are automatically lifted when it is turned. The two things to
remember are
a. Not to pull the central release lever
and drop the tines until the implement is fully turned round for the next bout
otherwise the tines can get bent and the points broken if they are the cast
iron type and
b. Towards the end of a pull when you
are about 6 yards or so from the pulling engine steer the cultivator towards
the front of the engine so that it is partly turned when the pull is stopped.
This will assist in the steady turning of the cultivator when the other engine
starts pulling back. This is particularly important with the narrower 9/11
cultivator which can otherwise be easily tipped over sideways when turned.
Slowing
down
41. Regardless of which implement is in
use the engine driver should slow down when nearing the end of a pull and in the
case of a plough should keep eyes on the plough furrow wheel. Immediately this
is steered out of the furrow onto the unploughed land the regulator should be
closed a little more to counter the increase in speed due to the reduced pulling
resistance of the plough. Then pull slowly for the last few yards before
stopping to give the ploughman time to position the plough for the return
journey.
42. Other implements such as a cultivator
and harrows are worked at a higher speed than the plough but must be slowed down
in the same way near the end of a pull before stopping.
43. A sudden stop at the end of a pull
with high winding speed must be avoided as this causes problems with loose coils
of rope dropping out of place on the other engine’s winding drum. If this
happens the coils must be put back into place before it can start its next pull
and you will not be very popular with the other driver!
Lastly....
44.
If
you get in the way of the machinery it does not stop.
So beware at all times!
Remember that when a pull starts the
implement is being controlled by the driver at the other end of the field who
may not be able to see fully what is going on.
MG/JB
©SPC 6.04.06
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